Welcome to the third session!

The perfume structure and concentrations

This session will focus on two fundamental topics in perfumery. The first one is about the perfume structure which allows a perfume to have an olfactory harmony over time. The second is the different types of concentrations of essential oils found today in the market.

The key elements of the session

Thank you all for having watched this session. We hope you have learned a few things about the perfume structure and the different perfume concentrations. This knowledge will be essential to create your own perfume with a good balance of top, heart and bottom notes and ensure the right intensity and longevity of your fragrance.

Below we have listed the key elements we have learned about during the session:

The olfactory pyramid

The olfactory pyramid defines the composition of a perfume. It expresses a chemical structure that allows the fragrance to have an olfactory harmony over time. As it evaporates over time, the perfume will evolve, unveiling a new range of different ingredients.

In perfumery, the olfactory pyramid is divided into three different types of notes depending on its volatility: top, heart, and bottom notes.

Top notes

Top notes are the first ingredients you smell when spraying a fragrance as they are the lightest molecules and, therefore, the most volatile. As the introduction of a story, these notes are the first ones to arise, but they quickly evaporate, lasting a maximum of 30 minutes.

Citrus accords such as Bergamot Citrus and Grapefruit Citrus, or green, aromatic or marine notes such as Cut Grass Green, Aromatic Lavender, and Marine Breeze could become the perfect scents to define the top notes of your fragrance.

Heart notes

Heart notes genuinely represent the soul of the fragrance, and frequently, they become the notes that define its identity and olfactory signature. The Top notes precede these notes, and once Top notes fade, Heart notes appear and last between 4 and 6 hours.

Florals such as Jasmine Floral, fruits such as Yellow Fruits, and spices such as Fresh Spicy are just a few examples of Heart notes that can be found in The Alchemist Atelier's scent library.

Bottom notes

Bottom notes represent the "sillage" of your fragrance, or in other words, they ensure the fragrance's longevity. They support the heart notes and make the pleasure last once flowers, fruits or spices evaporate. As these notes can last over 12 hours or more, their trace will become the memory of your perfume.

Woods such as Cedar Wood or Sandal Wood, orientals such as Caramel Gourmand or Oriental Vanilla and accords such as Sensual Leather are a few of the alternatives to choose from to build the olfactory trace of your perfume.

The balance of Top, Heart, and Bottom notes

The balance of top, heart and bottom notes in a fragrance structure depends on the type of fragrance you want to create.

In general, we recommend top notes to represent between 20% and 30% of your perfume, Heart notes between 30% and 40% and Bottom notes around 20%.

How is it possible to create a perfume without being a perfumer?

The Alchemist Atelier has developed a library of 36 different scents divided into what we call 16 bases and 20 accords to ease the task.

Bases represent the foundation of your fragrance and already combine Top, Heart, and Bottom notes. Choose 1 or 2 Bases to define the Olfactory Family of your perfume.

On the other side, accords represent the accessories or "toppings" that enable further customisation featuring a more specific ingredient. Choose 3 or 4 Accords to build the unique identity of your fragrance.

By combining Bases and Accords in a private session with a perfumer, you will easily create your own bespoke fragrance.

The perfume concentrations

Perfumes are produced with essential oils infused in alcohol. Depending on the concentration of essential oils we have the following categories in perfumery:

· Eau de Cologne: Between 3% and 5% of pure raw materials.

· Eau de Toilette: Between 5% and 8% of pure raw materials.

· Eau de Parfum: Between 8% and 15% of pure raw materials.

· Extrait de Parfum: Over 15% of pure raw materials.

The Scent Library of The Alchemist Atelier

All 36 Bases and Accords from our Scent Library are already infused in alcohol in an Eau de Parfum concentration and using the best quality ingredients.

Discover how easy it can be to create your own perfume by booking a private session with our perfumers.

Get ready for Session 4: The creative process of perfume making

In the next session, we will explore the creative process of perfume making, unveiling the different emerging trends and the different sources of inspiration to create unique fragrances.

To prepare yourself for this next session, we have an easy task for you! We invite you to think about a beautiful memory you would like to express through perfume. Is it a childhood memory? A holiday to an exotic destination? Think about it and get ready to discover the creative side of perfumery!

Watch now a preview of Session 4: